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Valentino’s Africa-Themed Fashion Week Puts Focus On Model Demographics

Valentino’s Africa-Themed Fashion Week Puts Focus On Model Demographics

Fashion brand Valentino has been accused of cultural appropriation after unveiling an Africa-themed collection at Paris Fashion Week using almost all white models, Metro reports.

The Rome-based high fashion house presented spring and summer 2016 clothes at Paris Fashion Week on Oct. 6, according to E! Online.

Valentino’s show featured “tribal” necklaces, kikuyu prints, beaded belts, raffia and fringing. Models wore cornrows.

Just eight out of the 87 models used in the show were black — 91 percent were white, Metro reports.

Valentino described the collection as an exploration of “vibrant Africa,” calling it “primitive, tribal, spiritual, yet regal.”

“The brand has been accused of cultural appropriation on a massive scale,” wrote Ellen Scott for Metro.co.uk.

This is the second time in two months the brand has been mired in controversy. Last month they got in trouble after sharing a photo of some shoes arranged in what looked like a swastika, according to Metro.

Model demographics at New York Fashion Week have improved, but are still mostly white, E! Online reports.

Swedish fashion brand H&M made waves in its latest video campaign promoting sustainability with a diversity of models: One is transgender, one is plus-size supermodel Tess Holliday, and one has a prosthetic limb. But making the biggest headlines are the many Sikh men and a Muslim model wearing a hijab — firsts for H&M, Mashable reported. Yet “the Muslim population is virtually ignored in the fashion industry,” said Mashable writer David Yi.

Canadian and American women increase purchase intentions for fashion products advertised by models who mirror their own demographics — age, size and race — according to Ben Barry, founder and CEO of a Toronto modeling agency.

Barry teaches equality, diversity and inclusion at Ryerson University‘s School of Fashion, TheFashionSpot reports. He conducted one of the first studies on how size, age and race of models affect fashion purchasing decisions.

Barry’s study found two ways in which multicultural marketing resonates with consumers. First, the brand must show a commitment to diversity, not just in advertising but also on the runway. Second, the advertisement’s art direction must  be just as stylized and beautiful as it would have been if it featured a young, size zero white model.

Staff at The Fashion Spot examined 460 fashion print ads for Fall 2015 and report the following:

84.7 percent of the models cast were white, which is roughly the same calculation we’ve reported in previous seasons. Asian models trailed at 6.2 percent, followed by black models at 4.4 percent and Latina models at 1.7 percent. Both black and Latina models were cast in fewer campaigns than in Spring 2015 while Asian models saw a slight increase from 5.7 percent.

Here are some of the Twitter responses repeated at E! Online:

Keith C Peterson tweeted: “My first tweet in years is going to be about racial insensitivity in fashion.”

Patrice Hall tweeted: “That’s very cute of #Valentino to pay homage to the African culture for the new collection, but ummm…where were the african models?”

Breanna tweeted, “Not gonna lie. I kinda hate the Valentino collection. Tip toeing the line of cultural appropriation.”

E! Online writer Nicole Adlman described the Valentino show as “another display of white hegemony in the mainstream. Good though that it allows for a conversation, one that will undoubtedly continue into next season.”